Paipo bodyboarding

There has been a recent renewed interest in all sorts of wave-riding vehicles, including the Paipo boards. Circa 1960s, wooden board designed by and belonging to Val Valentine and donated by Tom Holbrook (as well as a Greg Noll transition era kick-nose board, and a Paddleboard that belonged to legendary waterman, Tommy Zahn). Val Valentine was a surf pioneer, lived in Hawaii, and made and rode Paipo boards (which he featured in his surf movies. Val's Reef on the North Shore of Oahu, was named after him). For a selection of images of all manner of belly, body, and kneeboards with descriptions, click this link. Richard Kenvin's upcoming "Hydrodynamica" also contains some modern day Paipo riding.

Abbey Road revisited

"OK, so the board weighs almost 200 pounds and it takes 4 people to carry it to the beach. Yet another person was responsible for carrying the surf wax. That person would then spend 30 minutes waxing your surfboard just before you went surfing. Another person carried your lauhala beach mat and your towel. Yet another person carried your chilled coconut drinks and food. Life was good if you were part of the Alii. Have you ever thought about turning that board around quickly to catch an approaching set? Your trusted assistants aren't going to be of any assistance once you are out in the lineup. Thankfully the surf leash had yet to be invented, and the lineups would have been virtually empty."–Steve Wilkings, SHF Photo Editor


This board was made by Greg & Jed Noll and is modeled after one housed in the Bishop Museum, an original ancient Hawaiian Olo (olos were reserved to be ridden by the Hawaiian royalty and anyone else caught riding one without permission, would not be catching another wave). It's 16 feet in length and as you can see, it takes a couple people to haul it around.