Just a little background on
Dick Brewer’s Surfboards Hawaii contest at Haleiwa....
Dick Brewer (affectionately known as RB to those
who know him) started shaping surfboards in Haleiwa in about ‘61 or ‘62 under
the name Surfboards Hawaii. With his background in aeronautical
design from building remote-control balsawood airplanes in California, he
translated that design knowledge to hydrodynamics and quickly became the
“man” for getting great surfboards for the North Shore’s challenging
conditions. I was blessed with the opportunity to be on his Surfboards
Hawaii surf team starting in the winter of ‘63-‘64, along with Jeff Hakman and
Freddy Hemmings, fellow Punahou classmates as well. RB came up with the
idea to hold a surfing contest to generate even greater interest in his boards,
and he stipulated that you had to ride one of his Surfboards Hawaii boards in
order to enter. This wasn’t a problem for anyone, as in the early 60’s the
North Shore surfing community was a lot smaller and friendlier scene compared to
what it became in the decades that followed. All you had to do was borrow
a board from a friend to use in your heat. For judges, he got Jose Angel,
Kealoha Kaio, and I think Peter Cole, three already legendary big wave surfers
themselves. This contest was the first one RB held, although Gary
Chapman’s website mistakenly has a picture of the finalists in one that was a
year or two later. (By the way, Gary Chapman became one of the
hottest surfers in Hawaii during Brewer’s “pocket-rocket” era in the late
60’s and lived with Jock and Jeff in a house right inside backdoor
Pipeline. His brother Owl seemed to get all the press, but Gary was the
one who really had talent!) The surf at Haleiwa Beach Park that day
was big (8 to 10 foot Hawaiian scale) but unfortunately had an onshore wind that
made the waves extra
challenging.
Now, about Butch......I don’t
have to tell you that alcohol was Butch’s “drug” of choice. Whereas for a
lot of young surfers, pakalolo and psychedelics were the experience preferred
both in and out of the water, at least starting a few years
later. Butch was an just an old-fashioned drinker (and
brawler). Stories about him
drinking at the Seaview Inn (drinking with friends, brawling with them, make up
and drink some more!) were almost as legendary as his surfing. There
was a time in the 70’s when we would stop by his Ehukai lifeguard tower to “talk
stories” with him when he mentioned he was on the wagon. We all loved
Butch (everybody loved Butch!) and hoped it would last....unfortunately it
didn’t. Anyway, the day of the Surfboards Hawaii contest, Butch was
“relaxing” in a car in the parking area (dirt and scrub brush in those days)
with Harold Bloomfield (as gnarly a character as you could ever find!) and
fellow competitor Alton Tavares. “Relaxing” being drinking pineapple
“swipe” (they told us it was seasoned with a bit of gasoline!) and chasing
it with bottles of Primo. When we were called to paddle out for the
Final, Butch had to drag his board by the nose, using the tail dragging in the
sand as a “keel” to keep himself walking in a straight line.......and Butch did
what Butch always did...surfed great!...and won the contest (and got “Best
Wipeout”, no surprise). Butch never seemed to worry about his image
or what people thought about him. He lived his life on the edge,
devil-may-care, he was who he was, and our surfing world is somewhat less for
his absence. I hope I haven’t droned on here too much, but I guess
it’s what happens when you get an old-timer reminiscing.
Aloha,
Kiki
Spangler (Eric) (written in a message to Butch's sister, Annette Lucas)
1 Comments:
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